• Syntagma Square

    Syntagma Square

    Driving downtown is currently far beyond my skill level, so D dropped me off at the Metro on his way into work this morning so I could head to the center of Athens for some official Greek immigration business.  While waiting for my attorney in Syntagma Square, I passed the time with some killer people [...]

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Syntagma Square

Driving downtown is currently far beyond my skill level, so D dropped me off at the Metro on his way into work this morning so I could head to the center of Athens for some official Greek immigration business.  While waiting for my attorney in Syntagma Square, I passed the time with some killer people watching.  I have had to explain this term to my Greeks each time I use it…people watching is not a phrase that they use here in Hellas.  Honestly, when I attempt explanation it does sound a little creepy, but my act of people watching is certainly not a creepy as others…like the guy sitting across the fountain from me on the bench, for example.

One of the busiest places in Athens, Syntagma is the government headquarters of Greece, the Washington DC of Hellas, if you will.  Everyone wants to hop off the Metro here at this time in the day, but with trains running every two minutes, the ride is certainly less intimate then rush hour subway trips in other cities.  Also, Athens built their Metro for the 2006 Olympics, so the stations are essentially brand new…AKA ‘clean,’ and for a single Euro you can go just about anywhere.

After shelling out 200 Euros to translate my birth certificate and a few other pages of documents, part of the process to make myself a legal resident of Greece, I headed to a place near the square that my attorney tells me sells books in English…here I truly find the Greek Barnes and Noble!  After bathing in sexy American design books, I head upstairs for coffee.  In fact, as I write this I am sitting in a fifth floor café, sipping a cappuccino frappe, and staring across the square, the site of all the Greek strikes and protest that you hear about on Fox News.

On the other side of Syntagma Square is the Parliament Building.  The structure itself is a modern interpretation of the classic Greek orders. Upon inspection I believe that our own American capitol building makes this center of Greek politics look like it was constructed by blindfolded government workers, and that perhaps Thomas Jefferson understood classic architecture better than the modern Greeks.  I should not be so quick to judge a book by its cover however, because despite the building’s austere exterior, I can just imagine what frantic behavior is occurring inside, considering the state of Greece’s political climate.

Whatever they are scheming, it seems that the average Greek doesn’t really care.  They are not concerned with bailouts, austerity measures, or the value of the Euro; they just want someone they can blame.  While the Greek people seek an economic crisis poster child, what is completely being ignored here is that the bailout for Greece is not an attempt by the EU to help the people of Hellas, but to help the people that Hellas owes…largely other Europeans.  With the plan of action to improve Greece’s economy essentially non-existent, I can sit here sipping my frappe, close my eyes, and only fear how the future protests in Syntagma Square will unfold.

Love Rach

Greek Hospitality

Sunday is my favorite day here in Greece…even though all the stores are closed…because while I can’t shop, it means my Greek always has the day off.  While the stores are closed, the Tavernas are open.  A taverna is essentially what the Greeks call a family owned restaurant, and nothing is better than spending a lazy Sunday afternoon spending 3 or 4 hours drinking wine, eating traditional Greek cuisine, and soaking in local culture.  D and I love to hit the tavernas on Sundays.

This past Sunday we traveled outside Athens to sample a little place D heard had fresh fish at an incredible price.  It was my first seafood experience here in Hellas, and boy am I glad I waited…Opa!

We drove with D’s brother and his girlfriend for about an hour, until we crossed over the bridge to the Peloponnese…which in the US is like leaving the state for lunch.  Roughly an hour from our door, we found ourselves mingling with beach goers and vacationers in a tiny taverna.  Upon entrance we were not shown to our table, but immediately directed to the back of the open-air restaurant to select our seafood.

Charging by the weight, the waitress donned rubber gloves as she pulled various fish from the cooler and onto a scale for our review.  We settled on a large silver fish, two small black fish, a pile of crawfish, and a large plate of calamari before we returned to our table to order the side dishes.

The food started coming, first our Greek salad, side of feta, potatoes, and boiled leeks.  Next came the crawfish…which were really large compared to the Cajun variety I am used to…and even more sweet.  Next the waiter delivered the calamari fried with lemon; the two black fish grilled to perfection, and of course, our second bottle of Greek white (then our third…).

Finally the large silver fish arrived, and with squeezed lemons littering the table and absolutely no more room in my stomach to spare (could have something to do with the four plates of potatoes we ordered) D and his brother ordered one more dish.  Po! Po! Po!  (can translate to woah…or wow…or my God!) These were small silver fish lightly battered and fried.  Eaten whole, they seemed somewhat like sardines, just not as salty.  Taking one bite of the tail, and afraid to eat a fish head, I passed on the rest blaming my over-stuffed belly…really I just could think of chomping on fish guts.

This is a typical meal here in Greece.  Several hours, tons of plates, and free flowing wine.  I have been working hard to loose the six or seven kilos I gained while traveling this past year with snakeman, because I REALLY want to go to the beach.  It helps that my boyfriend is a fitness trainer, but honestly, this incredible concept of “Greek Hospitality” is really getting in my way…and I hate to complain about something so wonderful (and delicious).

Wednesday we were invited to the parent’s house of a Greek girlfriend of mine.  They did not speak English, but were looking forward to hosting an American girl anyway.  I was trying not to drink wine, trying to avoid fat and carbs, but my adorable Greek girlfriend just kept piling it on my plate as her father made sure the sweet sun ripened grape concoction was always present in my glass.  I was stuffed…after cheese, meatballs, salads, rooster, pasta, and wine…I was totally and completely over fed, and miles away from my poor attempt at a diet.  Even still, with my plate clean, the traditional Greek hospitality persisted and her mother expressed disappointment in how little I ate.  All the while mom and pop grilled my Greek about weight loss information. Opa…

As I write this I am dreaming about the moussaka in the refrigerator courtesy of D’s mom and the insane olive oil cake baked for the Saint Who-Finds-Things that we were sent home with…and can eat neither.  Seriously, I have given into cultural indulgence for far too long, and need a break.  I feel a little guilty passing things up, last night at a birthday party I am sure I disappointed our hosts by turning down their repeated offers of pastries and pies.  Finally however, despite the temptations (and likely thanks to the killer work outs I get courtesy of my personal live-in fitness instructor) I am starting to lose the kilos that I had so much fun packing on.  While this Greek food is utterly amazing, I am slowly remembering that nothing tastes as good as a six pack.

Besides, when I am beach ready and able to finally have occasional indulgences, the food will still be there.  Greek hospitality has endured thousands of years…it is certainly not going anywhere now.

Love, Rach

The Greek Basketball Finals

I have been lost here the last few weeks without a camera.  This is why I prefer to buy cameras that don’t require a unique charger…because I lose them! Today’s report will be sans photo, but I have relocated my charger (thankfully before dropping the 65€ to replace it) so not to worry about our visual future.

Sporting events here in Greece are taking me a little getting used to.  When I first arrived we joined some friends to watch a football game, which I repeatedly referred to as soccer, but other than the so called mix-up of terminology and the much sexier players, it was a typical American football came full of over excited opposing fans, an endless source of beer, and way too much food.

This past Sunday we had two friends over to watch the basketball game.  Honestly, I never watched the sport back in the US, so I can’t tell you where the rules are slightly different, or notice the varying abilities of the players, but I did come to realize there is something much different about Greek sports than what I am used to back home.  Sure we still had the overflowing mugs of beer and junk food covering the table, but there was something much more exciting than anything I have ever seen in the US.

The event was a finals game between Olympiakos and Panathinaikos…or the city of Athens and town Piraeus, a port city just outside Athens.  The stadium was packed, but it is important to note that
the entire crowd was wearing green because the home team fans are the only members of the audience.  Seriously.  This is solely due to safety concerns by the Greek authorities that attend the game not in green fan jerseys, but in helmets and protective gear.

Some players had Greek names, others were written in English, which I was informed because they had played for various teams in the NBA.  Just after half-time (Greek basketball quarters are only ten minutes each…and I am not complaining) some over enthused fans began to rip out seats from the stadium, throw plastic bottles at the opposing team, and even throw flares onto the court.  Opa.

My friends were a little pissed because they wanted to see the end of the game.  They were irritated…but not surprised.  Me, I was stunned.  Can you imagine this happening during the Final Four in the US? The Greek authorities stopped the game, cleared the stadium, and resumed once the childlike fans were escorted from the stands.

We were long asleep before the final score was announced, but we learned later that Athens won 76-69, meaning that the season is over and there will be no more games.  Can’t say I am mad about that.

If basketball becomes this violent, thank goodness there is no professional hockey league…

Love Rach

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